| 9 months ago :: Mar 25, 2009 - 9:42AM #1 | |
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I am about to really put a really big stake in the ground with vegetable gardening - literally. I am working with a local landscaper (the muscle) to build a 20'x20' fenced bed. I have ordered a wrought iron gate from this cool place in New Mexico and am going to use Brenners 7.5' fencing all around. Since my yard is hilly, I am building up 2 sides of the bed with lumber to level it off and I am going to bury the fencing all around to keep out the enormous groundhog that lives under my shed. After taking up the weeds (I would have said "grass" but that would have been a stretch) we will be tilling the exisiting clay with a combo of compost, top soil and some sand. I am going to put a wood chip path like an + in the center to define the 4 beds. This is as far as my planning has taken me. Any words of wisdom, advice or cautions before I break ground? |
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| 9 months ago :: Mar 25, 2009 - 9:56AM #2 | |
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MAP you sound like you have everything under control. Have you decided what you are going to plant? |
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| 9 months ago :: Mar 25, 2009 - 10:20AM #3 | |
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I was going to plant corn but yesterday one of my friends that lives near a farm told me corn is a bear magnet. That would be bad. So I am going to do the usual cool crops to start, the warm weather crops next but I want to stretch a bit and try some root vegetables - potatoes, garlic, onions, beets, etc. |
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| 9 months ago :: Mar 25, 2009 - 12:47PM #4 | |
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LuLu, My only advice for your landlord is she raise the bed as high as possible to get away from the clay. What she ends up in the way of a garden will only be as good as the soil she is growing in and I can't think of a single edible garden plant that likes clay. Good luck. BTW, LuLu will you be fenced in or fenced out of this area? |
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| 9 months ago :: Mar 25, 2009 - 1:15PM #5 | |
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Lulu has not yet mastered the art of typing so I will reply for her. Because my landscape is so hilly we couldn't find a flat space with full sun. So just by that very fact alone it will have to be leveled by using timbers to build up 3 sides. I figured that would give me an ability to add soil above the clay base, but you are correct - nothing likes clay. Lulu has permanently orange feet because of all the clay. |
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| 9 months ago :: Mar 25, 2009 - 2:11PM #6 | |
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I have alot of clay soils here to deal with too. I dig out at least 12 inches of the clayey soils (18 to 20 is even better), then amend them with some Clay Buster amendments. That is what the stuff here is called "Clay Buster". I also add in some nice rich compost like mushroom compost or even some home made stuff. I add in some play sand to the mix as well to help with the drainage of the soils. If the clay is real bad, I will lay in some perforated pipe from the low corner of the garden out into a pea gravel lined trench a good 8 feet out from the garden area and at the end make a bit of a pea and 3/4 gravel drainage area. It is alot of work but I can tell you it works well and is well worth the intial effort. Just digging out and amending the soils is not enough if the clay is bad. It will hold the water too much at the root zone and thus end up rotting the root systems. I firmly believe in creating a drainage path to get the water away from the garden so that just enough stays to give them the moisture they need.
Stan the Roseman |
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| 9 months ago :: Mar 25, 2009 - 2:19PM #7 | |
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This is great advice because, you are correct, the clay will hold the water in there no matter how much I amend it. Thanks Stan! |
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| 9 months ago :: Mar 26, 2009 - 12:08PM #8 | |
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The clan of daffodil bulbs are notoriously toxic and it's the reason why they survive in old California graveyards while everything else is consumed by gophers and other wildlife. So I started ringing my young fruit trees and gardens with these bulbs that are not only beautiful cut flowers but naturalize easily. Don't know much about wood chucks but they often discourage wildlife which is hesitant to dig through a thick daffodil "moat". Buy them in quantities for naturalizing for the best price. |
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